We'd planned it for a long time - possibly around 20 years. We wanted to climb Scotland's two most remote Munro's: A'Mhaighdean and Rhud Stac Mhor.They're both hours form the nearest road and at our age require camping on the appraoch, although if you're extra-fit you can do it all in one day.
Stats are: 26 miles round trip with around 5000ft of ascent - too much for 43 year-old legs (mine at least). 1June we met at Perth Travellodge - 100 miles for me 230 miles for the lads: they had an overnight there, i had an early start 6am. Got there at 7:30 and we had a full English with all the trimmings. We left at and got actually on the hill at 2pm. I have to say we stopped for a call of nature at layby 177 on the A9 and ran down the banking to be discreet - what a mess - a small rubbish dump really. Arrived a Kinlochewe and decided that Tea and scones were in order - for energy of course. I was amazed how much they've improved the road through Achnasheen -its now great and straight two-lane all the way to the head of the glen where it turns into a mess again all the way down the hill to Kinlochewe - it'll be great when its finished, thought I'm not sure I really like the idea of the area becoming so accessable. Tea and scones in the tea shop: the propriator had a bush red beard, slight pot belly, was wearing ron hills and a CAMRA T-shirt and spoke with an English accent - obviously a beer fan!
Anyway turned into Poolewe and parked next to the bridge - sun was out, high cloud and about 5 other cars in the car park. Shouldered the ruc-sacs and off we went. A word about the rucscaks - tents, sleeping bags, cooking stuff, food, clothes etc etc - mine weighed 50lbs - bloody hell, had to sit it on the boot of the car to get it in on.
Walked in along a well maintained stalkers path - awesome cliffs on the right, glimpses of the bothy in the distance. High cloud, quite warm. Finally got to the causeway - waves on the left, calm on the right with A'Mhaighdean towering to our left - slight mist on the top and smirring by then...I think it was round 8pm (we set off at 2pm).
Dumped stuff in the barn - there were 6 squaddies there already cooking tea (smelled horrible - the food that is) - they had the most awful south west scotland accents (i'm from there so I should know) - one of them even mentioned Kilmarnock. Anyway the barn was pretty basic but a palace if you were caught in a storm. We put up the tents then made food in the barn with the Trangia. The lads laughed at the rations (stew and dumplings) but they tasted great. Sat around the barn for a while - then later on a couple of rock climbers turned up; an American woman and an older lake-district guy. Chatting for a while then off to the comfort of the tent. I always preferred my own tent to a bothy (much more cosy). Also called home on the mobile - earlier we'd spotted a mobile phone mast maybe 15 miles distant - it looks all the way down the valley - we all got a signal from it - so much for the last wilderness! Anyway it was great to talk to home.Then settled down with the ipod ( yes first time I took it with me on a trip like this - listened to Lisa Gerrard - great mood music especially given the location - brief thought that we'd camped on a bog, was it goint to flood then whiskey then bed! perfect.
Slept for 8 hours solid to the gentle drumming of rain on the tent overnight. First look out the tent: the mist was down to around 20 feet over the tent roof - dissapointing! Heard the lads rousing in the other tent so got a brew on - wet outside so passed cups of tea and food back and forth between tents with my ski-pole. Eventually had to brave the elements. Saw the army guys departing (with fishing rods), so took up residence in the Barn for brekkie. We resolved to give it to 2pm to clear before deciding what to do. Weather stayed much the same, so we decided to walk out. E used the handy phone signal to book us into the bunkhouse at Kinlochewe (£10 per person) that night - again thanks be to mobile phones. I suggested that we go across the belach above Dubh loch to Loch Maree - then head south to Kinlochwewe - around 4 miles to the loch then 8 miles down the side: this would be a classic traverse of the wilderness. We decided to do that. When we got to the foot of the belach Malc had pretty sore knees so he headed back out the way we came in while E and I carried on with the classic traverse. Pretty hard going up the 1000 feet to the belach but once over that Loch Maree started to reveal itself - awesome seeing it from this side. Headed all the way down to Letterewe - seen it a million times from the road but from this side (incongruosly) saw it had a swimming pool- help m'boab a swimming pool in the wilderness. Also lots of evidence of pony dropping on the way down the hill - we reckon during stalking season they take people's equipment to Carnmore by donkey or pony - while the people walk - would be great. Reckoned if I was bill gates I'd have my summer residence at Letterewe.
We trekked down the eastern shore of Loch Maree - glorious, high cloud, sun was beginning to come out. We missed the path and ended up hacking through some woods about a mile south of Letterewe: had to climb the side of the hill to re-gain the path. After that it was a lovely (if long) walk all the way to the foot of the loch. I was amazed how much rain had falled the previous evening - all the watercourses were high and it was very wet underfoot. Having reached the Southern end of the loch there was more to go - we followed the river for quite a distance (probably only a mile but at this stage I was feeling it, so it felt more like 3 miles. By this time I was around 15 mins behind E - he's always been a faster walker than me. Thanks to our Mobile phones working we called each other a few times to chart progress. Eventually he called and said he'd sent Malcolm up to the road end in the car (malcolm had walked out in 4 hours - via waist deep river crossing, got the car, driven to the bunkhouse, had tea and a shower). Malcolm came up to Incheril and as I walked past the graveyard I could see him waitning in the car!! Excellent, it saved a pain in the butt final mile on the road. Straight to the bar at the Kinlochewe hotel for four pints. Food had stopped serving so Edward and I munched 10 packs of crisps and other rubbish. Then to the bunhouse: never been there before - really clean with triple decker bunks and a great shower. Two people were already tucked up in bed so quietly we showered (fantastic) and hit the sack. A wee whisky and some ipod (Lisa Gerrard again) and a great nights sleep - what a great walk - not what we planned but a good alternative.
Next day a full English breakfast at the Kinlochewe store (guy looked grumpy about making it tho'). M and E had to hit the road - 600 miles to Manchester to go, but I decided to take an hour and drive down Torridon to look at my favourite mountain Liatiach - awesome as usual - and (annoyingly) all clear. Felt like the old man of the hills having done most of the Torridon mountains - awsome place - must re-do Liaitach sometime. Then it was time to head for home - stopped off at Bruar for venison jerky. Home and a bath - most welcome.
Must say the legs were a bit sore for a week afterwards. No feet problems bar a couple of bruised toes. Main thing was a swollen ankle (M noticed it when were were watching a movie), and a sore knee - must be age! Possiblly Glen Affrick in October with S (who'se just recovering from a major operation) - will we great to get back out with him back on the team. I don't have a video of this expiditon so I will have to make to with a snippet from a 2003 cycle near Grizedale with Ed and Ste.
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